Tuesday, September 9, 2014
Mumbai's Parsi Cafes
Mumbai is a city that is proud of its
diverse cuisine and culture. This bustling city, which is the fourth most
populous in the world, is every Indian's urban dream. The Mumbaikars (the name
often given to the city's residents) are extremely passionate about their local
cuisine in all its diverse glory.
One such culinary culture that has been
part of life in Mumbai is the city's Parsi cafes. These grand cafes started
opening during the 19th century by Parsi settlers (Zoroastrians from Iran) and
during their peak there were more than 500 of them dotted across the city. Many
of them starting out as tea stalls and growing in size. The majority were
family businesses, and still are, but the numbers have dwindled. Today, there
are less than 20 of these cafes left in the city.
The reason so many of these cafes are no
longer open is because the next generation are not interested in running the
business. Instead they want jobs that pay well or want to go overseas. In fact,
it seems unlikely that many of these cafes will exist once the current owners
pass away.
One of the last remaining cafes in the
southern part of the city is Britannia and Co Restaurant. This culinary
institution has faded décor and peeling paint on the walls, but that just adds
to its charm. Britannia and Co is open for lunch from Monday to Saturday and
attracts a diverse crowd. As with all Parsi cafés, Britannia is completely
inclusive; there is no discrimination around class, gender, background or
religion - a nod to their Zoroastrian roots.
The current owner of the business, Boman
Kohinoor has worked here for 75 years. Now over 90, he may well be one of the
oldest working waiters, but he's not showing any signs of retiring just yet.
Bomas has been serving the café's signature dishes ever since he was 16 years
old. The most famous of which is chicken berry pulaos - a sweet-sour dish made
of pilau rice, chicken, barberries, cashews, caramelised onions and a
deliciously spiced sauce. It is the barberries that make this dish so unique.
Similar to cranberries crossed with pomegranate, these berries are imported
from Iran. Another dish on the must-try list is the crème caramel.
Parsi dishes are renowned for their bold
flavours, mild levels of spice and use of dried fruits. Many Parsi recipes use
meat such as chicken and mutton, but fish and eggs are also popular. Dishes are
generally served with rice and flavoured with classic Indian spices.
If this has whetted your appetite for a
taste of authentic Parsi cuisine then head to London's oldest fine dining Indian restaurant,
overlooking Regent Street. You will be able to choose from a range of dishes
from across India. These dishes are cooked from recipes dating back many years,
and each dish has its own unique appeal - from rich and hearty to light and
contemporary, you can take your pick. And enjoy every mouthful.
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